One trip, two countries, four cities: Buenos Aires, Florianópolis, Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo.
South America had been on my list for years, and this fall I finally made it. The plan was simple: start in Buenos Aires, then work our way up the Brazilian coast through Florianópolis, Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo. Here’s how it went.
Buenos Aires: Europe with an Argentine Accent
We landed in Buenos Aires after a 10-hour flight from JFK, and the first thing that struck me was how European the city feels. The grand boulevards, the ornate architecture and the café culture make it feel like a blend of Italy, France and Spain, and the food follows suit.
We spent the first few days doing the classic sights: the Obelisco on Avenida 9 de Julio, a dinner tango show, and a fantastic steak dinner at La Cabrera (the first of several steak dinners, to be honest). We wandered the brightly painted houses of Caminito in La Boca, explored the elaborate mausoleums of Recoleta Cemetery, and rewarded ourselves with some truly excellent Freddo ice cream.
To wrap up, we took a day trip to Tigre for a river cruise through the Paraná Delta, a peaceful escape just outside the city. Our last day was a slower one: a stroll through the Japanese Garden and a visit to the museum of modern art to see its Frida Kahlo exhibit.
Florianópolis: Dunes, Islands and a Rental Car That Wasn’t
A two-hour flight took us to Florianópolis, where we hit our first travel snag. We arrived late at night only to find our rental car wasn’t available, so we ended up getting around by Uber for the rest of our stay. It turned out to work just fine.
Our first full day started with a walk around Lagoa da Conceição, followed by sandboarding on the dunes nearby. In the afternoon we headed to Praia Mole, but the skies were overcast and the beach turned out to be more about surfing than lounging.
The next day made up for it. We took a boat to Ilha do Campeche, a small island with clear water and white sand, and spent the day swimming and relaxing. The only challenge was the local quatis (coatis), who were very interested in our backpacks and needed constant shooing away. We ended the day with a sunset dinner in Ribeirão da Ilha, a charming Azorean-colonial village in the south of the island.
On our last morning we squeezed in a short 5K run before catching a one-hour afternoon flight to Rio.
Rio de Janeiro: Mountains, Beaches and Contrasts
We arrived in Rio around 5 p.m. under cloudy skies. This was our first major Brazilian city, and the dramatic landscape, with mountains rising right out of the ocean and wealthy neighborhoods sitting next to favelas, was fascinating to take in.
We stayed at an Airbnb in Ipanema and spent the first evening simply exploring the neighborhood. The next day was all about the icons: up Corcovado to see Christ the Redeemer, a visit to the striking Museu do Amanhã (Museum of Tomorrow), and finally the cable car up Sugarloaf Mountain.
On our final full day, we walked the seaside promenade from Ipanema to Copacabana, then had a long lunch at a seaside restaurant on Praia Vermelha, right at the foot of Sugarloaf. After that it was back to shower and pack before a midnight flight to São Paulo.
São Paulo: A Local’s Tour
We spent our last two days in São Paulo with our friend and host, Thomas, which made all the difference. We explored downtown, strolled along Avenida Paulista, wandered through Liberdade (the city’s Japanese district) and enjoyed some excellent Korean food.
On our final morning, after a leisurely breakfast, Thomas took us to Ibirapuera Park. It reminded me a lot of Central Park in New York, and on a Saturday morning it was buzzing with runners, cyclists and families. We walked about three miles before wrapping up our stay and heading to Guarulhos Airport for the nine-hour flight home.
Final Impressions
Brazil was more modern and developed than I expected. Yes, there were signs of poverty and homelessness, as there are in any big city, but the overall vibe was energetic, with plenty of people traveling, and Brazilians were consistently warm and friendly.
All in all, it was a fantastic first taste of South America. I’ll definitely be back, next time to explore Northeast Brazil.
